Mount Kolahoi

Kolahoi also known as the Matterhorn of Kashmir.

Mount Kolahoi

The first successful ascend to Kolahoi Peak was made by British Medical Team headed by Dr. Earnest Neve and Professor Kenneth Mason in 1912 from the eastern couloirs which was later named as Neve/Mason couloir. Kolahoi Peak, also known as the Matterhorn of Kashmir, lies in NW Himalayas rising from the Kolahoi Glacier. In 1935 another successful summit was done by John hunt through its South Route. The route is still considered moderate for climbing. Recently, in 2015, the peak was climbed by our team member Mohammad Shafqat along with two fellow climbers. The group took Neve/Mason route and later in the same month another successful attempt was made by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation with Jammu & Kashmir Mountaineering and Hiking Club following the route that John Hunt took in 1935. One of our team members Junaid Baigh was also part of the expedition.  

Climbing Itinerary

Day 1

Mild hike of 3 hours from Aru to Lidder valley for an overnight stay.

Day 2

Further ascend to the Base Camp at Dodhsar (3750m) and establish a camp.

Day 3

After steep ascend to Glacier snout we will travel through Northern Glacier to Camp 1 (summit camp) on Southern Col and will return to the Base Camp for acclimatization.

Day 4

Load ferrying from Base camp to Camp 1 (4750m) and stay overnight for the summit push.

Day 5 to Day 7 Summit days

Day 8

Descend back through same route to the Base Camp.

Day 9

Trek back to Aru.

Alpine Ascend

Day 1

We start early from a different route and establish a Base Camp at Danwath (4000m)

Day 2

Early ascend through Mosa's Graveyard (Glacier) then a steep ascend to Burdlau ridge and descend to Southern Col (Camp 1 / Summit Camp)

Day 3 and 4 Summit Days

Day 5

Descend back to the Base Camp

Day 6

Back to Aru

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